Solid anhydrous composition for keratin fibers

ABSTRACT

Present invention is on an anhydrous solid conditioning and styling, composition for keratin fibres, especially human hair. The object of the present invention is a solid anhydrous composition for keratin fibres, especially for human hair, comprising at least one polyol liquid at 20° C. at a concentration 50% or more by weight and at least one fatty acid soap at a concentration of 5% or more by weight, all values calculated to total composition, wherein the composition is free of volatile organic solvents, especially C 1 -C 4  aliphatic alcohol.

Present invention is on an anhydrous solid conditioning and styling,composition for keratin fibres, especially human hair.

Solid conditioning in particular styling compositions are available onthe market. Generally they are aqueous compositions and/or comprisingwater at certain level and additionally comprising volatile organicsolvents in particular lower aliphatic alcohols and especially C₁ to C₄aliphatic alcohols.

These compositions are not satisfactorily stable as shrinkage occursbecause of evaporation of water and other volatile solvents takes placeduring longer storage periods even at ambient and lower temperatureranges. Solid compositions are often suitably packed in a stick-forminto a holder which is necessarily air-tight. Therefore, there is agreat need for improvement and especially eliminating such kind ofstability problem in order to achieve long living products at the marketplace.

Accordingly, the first objective of the present invention is to providea solid conditioning and especially styling composition for keratinfibres, especially human hair with improved stability.

The second object of the present invention is to provide a compositionin solid form to be used for styling hair and especially for improvingshine, preventing fly-away and for anti-frizzy effect.

The inventors have surprisingly found out that a solid anhydrouscomposition comprising at least one polyol liquid at 20° C. and at leastone fatty acid soap has improved stability properties over a longstorage period and improves hair shine, prevents fly-away and showsexcellent anti-frizz effect.

Accordingly, the first object of the present invention is a solidanhydrous composition for keratin fibres, especially for human hair,comprising at least one polyol liquid at 20° C. at a concentration 50%or more by weight and at least one fatty acid soap at a concentration of5% or more by weight, all values calculated to total composition,wherein the composition is free of volatile organic solvents, especiallyC₁-C₄ aliphatic alcohol.

Further object of the present invention is the use of a solid anhydrousconditioning composition for keratin fibres, especially for human hair,comprising at least one polyol liquid at 20° C. at a concentrationgreater than 50% by weight and at least one fatty acid soap at aconcentration of 5% by weight and more, all values calculated to totalcomposition, wherein the composition is free of volatile organicsolvents especially C₁-C₄ aliphatic alcohol for conditioning and stylingkeratin fibres, especially human hair and especially for improving hairshine and preventing fly-away.

Still further object of the present invention is a process forconditioning and styling keratin fibres, especially human hair, whereina composition comprising at least one polyol liquid at 20° C. at aconcentration greater than 50% by weight and at least one fatty acidsoap at a concentration of 5% by weight or more, all values calculatedto total composition, wherein the composition is free of volatileorganic solvents especially C₁-C₄ aliphatic alcohol is applied onto wetor dry keratin fibres, especially human hair and not rinsed off.

Composition of the present invention comprise at least one polyol liquidat 20° at a concentration of at least 50% by weight calculated to totalcomposition. Concentration of at least one polyol is preferably at least60% and more preferably at least 70% by weight, calculated to totalcomposition.

With the term polyol it is meant any compound, preferably aliphaticcompounds, having 2 or more hydroxyl groups in its molecule.

With the term anhydrous it is meant that compositions do not compriseany water and other volatile solvents as added. However it is possiblethat water and other volatile organic solvents are incorporated into thecompositions at minor concentrations due to use of raw materials whichcomprise such compounds.

The term liquid means that polyol compound is free flowing and cancomprise unmelted parts dispersed in it.

Suitable polyols are according to the general formula

and

H(OCH₂CH₂)_(n)OH

wherein n is a number between 1 and 20, preferably between 1 and 16 andmore preferably between 1 and 13 and most preferably between 1 and 10.

Examples to (poly)propylene glycols suitable are propylene glycol,PPG-3, PPG-7, PPG-9, PPG-12, PPG-13, PPG-15, PPG-16, PPG-17, and PPG-20.Preferred are propylene glycol, PPG-3, PPG-7, PPG-9, PPG-12, PPG-13,PPG-15, and PPG-16. More preferred are propylene glycol, PPG-3, PPG-7,PPG-9, PPG-12, and PPG-13. Most preferred are propylene glycol, PPG-3,PPG-7, and PPG-9. In particular, propylene glycol is found to beexcellently suitable.

Examples to (poly)ethyleneglycols are PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9,PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18, and PEG-20. Preferred are PEG-4,PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, and PEG-16. Morepreferred are PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, and PEG-12.Most preferred are PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, and PEG-10. Inparticular, PEG-8 is found to be excellently suitable.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, compositioncomprises at least one (poly)propylene glycol according to the generalformula give above and at least one (poly)ethyleneglycol at a(poly)propylene glycol to (poly)ethyleneglycol weight ratio of 10:1 to1:10, preferably 5:1 to 1:5 and more preferably 3:1 to 1:3 and mostpreferably 1:1.

Composition of the present invention comprise at least one fatty acidsoap at a concentration of 5% by weight or more, preferably 5 to 20%,more preferably 5 to 15% and most preferably 7.5 to 12.5% by weightcalculated to total composition.

Preferred fatty acid soap is sodium soap and most preferred is sodiumstearate.

Composition of present invention is preferably semi-transparent and morepreferably transparent. Transparency is judged macroscopically at acomposition thickness of approximately 1 cm either in a transparentvessel or as it is.

Composition comprises preferably at least one film forming-stylingpolymer soluble in the composition. Preferred are non-ionic polymers.

With the term solubility it is meant that at the concentration polymerused in the composition it is dissolved without leaving any remains atambient temperature which is approximately 20° C.

Non-limiting examples to suitable non-ionic polymers are vinylpyrrolidonpolymers either homopolymers or copolymers with, especially,vinylacetate. Those are known with the trade name “Luviskol” ashomopolymers Luviskol K 30, K 60 or K 90 as well copolymers Luviskol VA64 from BASF AG.

Natural non-ionic polymers are as well suitable for the composition ofthe present invention. Those are such as cellulose, chitosan, guar gumand their derivatives.

Film forming styling polymers are comprised in the compositions of thepresent invention at a concentration of 0.1 to 10%, preferably 0.25 to7.5% and more preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight calculated to totalcomposition.

Composition can comprise silicone compounds. It is the preferredembodiment that the compositions comprise at least one siliconecompound. The silicone compound is preferably soluble in the remainingof the composition. Suitable ones are dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclicsilicones, arylated silicone and amino silicones. Preferably, usefulsilicones are non volatile silicones, however volatile ones can also becomprised at concentration that does not cause any instability. Anothercondition is that the silicone used in the compositions must be fullsoluble and/or miscible with the other parts of the composition.Nonlimition examples are dimethicones as available from Dow Corning withvarious viscosities, cyclosiloxanes such as cyclopantasilocane,cyclotetrasiloxane and cyclotrisiloxane, arylated silicones such asphenyl trimethicone, phenyl methicone, trimethyl pentaphenyltrisiloxane, aminated silicones such as quaternium-80, amodimethiconeand polysilicone-9. With the term aminated silicone it is meant thatsilicone compounds comprising at least one secondary, tertiary orquaternary amino group. Concentration of any of the silicone compoundsis in the range of 0.01 to 5%, preferably 0.1 to 4% and more preferably0.25 to 2.5% by weight calculated to total composition.

In a preferred form of the invention, composition comprises at least onefatty acid fatty alcohol ester according to general formula

R₁—C(O)—O—R₂

wherein R₁ is straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated with 8 to22 C atoms, preferably 12 to 18 C atoms and R₂ is straight or branched,saturated or unsaturated 1 to 6 C atoms, preferably 2 to 4 C atoms.

Non-limiting suitable examples are isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate,butyl palmitate, isobutyl palmitate, methyl palmitate, hexyl palmitate,isohexyl palmitate, methyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, butylmyristate, ethyl myristate, isobutyl myristate, isopropyl laurate, ethyllaurate, butyl laurate, isobutyl laurate, methyl laurate, hexyl laurate,isohexyl laurate, isopropyl stearate, ethyl stearate, butyl stearate,isobutyl stearate, methyl stearate, hexyl stearate and isohexylstearate. Fatty acid fatty alcohol ester is comprised in thecompositions at a concentration of 0.01 to 2%, preferably 0.1 to 1% byweight calculated to total composition.

Composition of the present invention may comprise surfactants ofanionic, non-ionic or amphoteric character. Nonionic surfactants are themost preferred ones. Preferred non-ionic surfactants are fatty alcoholethoxylates such as Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-30, Ceteareth-40, Ceteth-20,Ceteth-30, Ceteth-40, Steareth-20, Steareth-25 and Steareth-20.

Further preferred non-ionic surfactants are ethoxylated triglyceridessuch as PEG-30 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-35 hydrogenated castor oil,PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-55 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-65 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-200hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-35 castor oil, PEG-50 castor oil, PEG-55castor oil, PEG-60 castor oil, PEG-80 castor oil, PEG-100 castor oil,PEG-200 castor oil.

Total surfactant concentration of the compositions other than fatty acidsoap is in the range of 0.1 to 10%, preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weightcalculated to total composition.

Composition of the present invention preferably comprises at least oneUV filter. Concentration of UV filter is in the range of 0.1 to 5%,preferably 0.25 to 4% by weight calculated to total composition.Non-limiting suitable examples are are 4-Aminobenzoic acid and theesters and salts thereof, 2-phenyl benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and thealkali and amine salts thereof, 4-dimethyl aminobenzoic acid and theesters and salts thereof, cinnamic acid and the esters and saltsthereof, 4-methoxycinnamic acid and the esters and salts thereof,salicylic acid and the esters and salts thereof,2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,2′,4,4′-tetrahydroxy-benzophenone,2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone and its 5-sulfonic acid or the sodiumsalt thereof, 2,2′-dihydroxy-4,4′-dimethoxybenzophenone,2-hydroxy-5-chlorobenzophenone, 2,2′-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,2,2′-dihydroxy-4,4′-dimethoxy-5,5′-disulfobenzo-phenone or the sodiumsalt thereof, 2-hydroxy-4-octyloxybenzophenone,2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4′-methylbenzophenone, 3-benzyl-idenecampher,3-(4′-sulfo)-benzyl-idenebornane-2-one and the salts thereof and/or3-(4′-methyl benzylidene)-DL-campher.

Direct dyes of anionic, cationic, and/or nonionic character can becomprised in the compositions of the present invention. Preferred directdyes are of cationic direct dyes for hair colouring purposes. In thecase of product colouring anionic dyes are more preferred. Concentrationis in the range of 0.0001 to 1% by weight, calculated to totalcomposition.

In the selection of direct dyes, compatibility of the dye with the restof the composition must be taken into account.

Suitable cationic direct dyes are Basic Blue 6, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue9, Basic Blue 26, Basic Blue 41, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 4, BasicBrown 16, Basic Brown 17, Natural Brown 7, Basic Green 1, Basic Orange31, Basic Red 2, Basic Red 12 Basic Red 22, Basic Red 51, Basic Red 76,Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 10, BasicViolet 14, Basic Yellow 57 and Basic Yellow 87, and mixtures thereof.

Any anionic dye is in principal suitable for the compositions,especially for giving compositions an attractive colour. Suitableexamples are such as Acid Black 1, Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Food Blue5, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 74, Acid Orange 3, Acid Orange 6,Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Red 1, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18,Acid Red 27, Acid Red 50, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, AcidRed 88, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 155, Acid Red 180, Acid Violet 9, AcidViolet 43, Acid Violet 49, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 3,Food Yellow No. 8, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 8,D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 21,D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Violet 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&CYellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, FD&C Green 3, FD&C Red 2, FD&C Red 40,FD&C Red No. 4, FD&C Yellow No. 6, FD&C Blue 1, Food Black 1, Food Black2, Disperse Black 9 and Disperse Violet 1 and their alkali metal saltssuch as sodium, potassium, and mixtures thereof.

Neutral dyes, so called nitro dyes for hair colouring purposes can alsobe contained in the compositions. Suitable ones are HC Blue No. 2, HCBlue No. 4, HC Blue No. 5, HC Blue No. 6, HC Blue No. 7, HC Blue No. 8,HC Blue No. 9, HC Blue No. 10, HC Blue No. 11, HC Blue No. 12, HC BlueNo. 13, HC Brown No. 1, HC Brown No. 2, HC Green No. 1, HC Orange No. 1,HC Orange No. 2, HC Orange No. 3, HC Orange No. 5, HC Red BN, HC Red No.1, HC Red No. 3, HC Red No. 7, HC Red No. 8, HC Red No. 9, HC Red No.10, HC Red No. 11, HC Red No. 13, HC Red No. 54, HC Red No. 14, HCViolet BS, HC Violet No. 1, HC Violet No. 2, HC Yellow No. 2, HC YellowNo. 4, HC Yellow No. 5, HC Yellow No. 6, HC Yellow No. 7, HC Yellow No.8, HC Yellow No. 9, HC Yellow No. 10, HC Yellow No. 11, HC Yellow No.12, HC Yellow No. 13, HC Yellow No. 14, HC Yellow No. 15,2-Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, picramic acid,1,2-Diamino-4-nitrobenzol, 1,4-Diamino-2-nitrobenzol,3-Nitro-4-aminophenol, 1-Hydroxy-2-amino-3-nitrobenzol and2-hydroxyethylpicramic acid, and mixtures thereof.

Hardness of the solid conditioning compositions of the present inventioncan be characterised with a penetration value. The penetration value canbe determined with a commercially available penetrometer (SUR Berlin PNR10) at 20° C. In the preferred embodiment of the present invention,composition has a penetration value between 1 and 30 mm, preferablybetween 2 and 20 mm, more preferably between 5 and 20 mm determined at20° C.

Composition of the present invention further comprises ingredientscommon to the any cosmetic compositions, such as fragrance,preservatives, acids and/or basis for adjusting pH, etc.

The following examples are used to demonstrate the invention but not tolimit.

EXAMPLE 1

% by weight Propylene glycol 89.5 Sodium stearate 10 Fragrance 0.5

The composition was prepared by dissolving sodium stearate in propyleneglycol with the use of heat. After cooling at approximately roomtemperature fragrance was added and further mixed to homogeneity. Theresulting solid composition had a penetration depth of 6.7 mm measuredat 20° C. with above mentioned equipment. The resulting composition istransparent and stable over 6 months in a temperature range of 5 to 40°C. (isotherm storage).

The composition was applied on dry hair and was observed that hairbecame more shine, easily stylable and had less flay-aways.

EXAMPLE 2

% by weight Propylene glycol 45 PEG-8 45 Sodium stearate 9.5 Fragrance0.5

The composition was prepared in the same way as in example 1. Theresulting composition was transparent and was stable over 6 months in atemperature range of 5 to 40° C. (isotherm storage).

The composition was applied on dry hair and was observed that hairbecame more shine and fly-aways were reduced dramatically, at the sametime hair was styled very easily.

EXAMPLE 3

% by weight Propylene glycol 47 PEG-8 40 Sodium stearate 8.5 Luviskol VA64 4 Fragrance 0.5

The composition was prepared by dissolving sodium stearate and LuviskolVA 64 in propylene glycol and PEG-8 mixture in presence of heat. Aftercooling at approximately room temperature fragrance was added andfurther mixed to homogeneity. The resulting composition was transparentand was stable over 6 months in a temperature range of 5 to 40° C.(isotherm storage).

The composition was applied on wet hair and was observed that hair waseasily styled and became more shine, less fly-aways.

EXAMPLE 4

% by weight Propylene glycol 45 PEG-8 42 Sodium stearate 9.5 Luviskol VA64 2.5 Benzophenone-3 0.5 Fragrance 0.5

The composition was prepared by dissolving sodium stearate and LuviskolVA 64 in propylene glycol and PEG-8 mixture in presence of heat andcombining it with Benzophenone-3. The resulting composition wastransparent and was stable over 6 months in a temperature range of 5 to40° C. (isotherm storage).

The composition was applied on wet hair and was observed that hair waseasily styled and became more shine, less fly-aways. The compositionprovided particular UV protection.

EXAMPLE 5

% by weight Propylene glycol 45 PEG-8 42 Sodium stearate 11.5 Isoproyplpalmitate 0.5 Benzophenone-3 0.5 Fragrance 0.5

The composition was prepared by dissolving sodium stearate in propyleneglycol and PEG-8 mixture in presence of heat and remaining ingredientsare combined subsequently. Fragrance was added after cooling thecomposition down to below 40° C. The resulting composition wastransparent and was stable over 6 months in a temperature range of 5 to40° C. (isotherm storage).

The composition was applied on wet hair and was observed that hair waseasily styled and became more shine, less fly-aways. The compositionprovided particular UV protection.

EXAMPLE 6

% by weight Propylene glycol 41 PEG-8 41 Sodium stearate 11.5 LuviskolVA 64 5 Phenyl methicone 0.5 Benzophenone-3 0.5 Fragrance 0.5

The composition was prepared in the same way as in Example 4. Theresulting composition was transparent and was stable over 6 months in atemperature range of 5 to 40° C. (isotherm storage).

The composition was applied on wet hair and was observed that hair waseasily styled and became more shine, less fly-aways and also provided UVprotection.

EXAMPLE 7

% by weight Propylene glycol 43 PEG-8 43 Sodium stearate 7.5 Luviskol VA64 5 Isopropyl palmitate 0.5 Basic red 51 0.1 Benzophenone-3 0.5Fragrance 0.4

The composition was prepared in the same way as in example 6. Theresulting composition was transparent and was stable over 6 months in atemperature range of 5 to 40° C. (isotherm storage).

The composition was applied on wet hair and was observed that hair waseasily styled and had red shimmery shine.

EXAMPLE 8

% by weight Propylene glycol 46 PEG-8 40 Sodium stearate 7.5 Luviskol VA64 5 Polysilicone-9 0.5 Basic blue 99 0.01 Benzophenone-3 0.5 Fragrance0.49

The composition was prepared in the same way as in example 7. Theresulting composition was transparent and was stable over 6 months in atemperature range of 5 to 40° C. (isotherm storage).

The composition was applied on wet hair and was observed that hair waseasily styled and had less fly-away. Excellent anti-yellowing effect wasobserved on gray hair.

EXAMPLE 9

% by weight Propylene glycol 43 PEG-8 43 Sodium stearate 7.5 Luviskol VA64 5 Dimethicone 0.5 Benzophenone-3 0.5 Basic red 51 0.05 Basic yellow87 0.02 Basic orange 0.02 Fragrance 0.41

The composition was prepared in the same way as in example 7. Theresulting composition was transparent and was stable over 6 months in atemperature range of 5 to 40° C. (isotherm storage).

The composition was applied on wet hair and was observed that hair waseasily styled, had excellent blond shine and had less fly-aways.

EXAMPLE 10

% by weight Propylene glycol 42 PEG-8 42 Sodium stearate 9.5 Luviskol VA64 5 Trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane 0.5 Benzophenone-3 0.5 Acid red52 0.001 CI 47005 0.002 Fragrance 0.497

The composition was prepared in the same way as in example 7. Theresulting composition was transparent and was stable over 6 months in atemperature range of 5 to 40° C. (isotherm storage). The composition hasa stable red-orange colour.

The composition was applied on wet hair and was observed that hair waseasily styled and had less fly-aways.

1. Solid anhydrous composition for keratin fibres, especially humanhair, characterised in that it comprises at least one polyol liquid at20° C. at a concentration of 50% or more by weight and at least onefatty acid soap at a concentration of 5% or more, all values arecalculated to total composition, wherein composition is free of volatileorganic solvents, especially C₁-C₄ aliphatic alcohol.
 2. Compositionaccording to claim 1 characterised in that at least one polyol isselected from compounds according to the general formula

andH(OCH₂CH₂)_(n)OH wherein n is a number between 1 and
 20. 3. Compositionaccording to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises at least onepolyol according to general formula

wherein n is a number between 1 and 20, and at least one another polyolaccording to general formulaH(OCH₂CH₂)_(n)OH wherein n is a number between 1 and 20 at a weightratio between 10:1 to 1:10.
 4. Composition according to claim 1,comprising at least one fatty acid sodium soap, preferably sodiumstearate.
 5. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the compositionis semi-transparent or transparent wherein transparency is judgedmacroscopically at a composition thickness of 1 cm.
 6. Compositionaccording to claim 1, comprising at least one film forming stylingpolymer soluble in the composition at 20° C. at a concentration of 0.1to 10% by weight calculated to total composition.
 7. Compositionaccording to claim 1, comprising at least one silicone compound. 8.Composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one fatty acidfatty alcohol ester according to general formulaR₁—C(O)—O—R₂ wherein R₁ is straight or branched, saturated orunsaturated with 8 to 22 C atoms, preferably 12 to 18 C atoms and R₂ isstraight or branched, saturated or unsaturated 1 to 6 C atoms,preferably 2 to 4 C atoms.
 9. Composition according to claim 1,comprising at least one surfactant selected from non-ionic, anionic andamphoteric ones.
 10. Composition according to claim 9 characterised inthat it comprises at least non-ionic and/or anionic surfactant. 11.Composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one UV filter. 12.Composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one direct dye.13. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition has apenetration value between 1 and 30 mm determined with a penetrometer at20° C.
 14. (canceled)
 15. Process for conditioning and styling keratinfibres, comprising the step of applying a composition according to claim1 onto wet or dry keratin fibres, and not rinsing off.